+ WALES BONNER
Mambo is the third collection by Grace Wales Bonner, young British BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund prizewinner designer. The SS20 collection comes in a triptych exploring spirituality through a black cultural lens, following Ecstatic Recital (SS19) and Mumbo Jumbo (AW 19). Taking its inspiration from Robert Farris Thompson’s seminal research into Mambo aesthetics, the collection channels Afro-Cuban rhythmicality and dance.
Silhouettes reflect the romanticism of forties dress, with tailoring elegantly cinched at the waist. Military influences are present in wide gabardine utility pants, technical safari silhouettes and a tobacco suede jacket. A nostalgic vision of the Havana ballroom is updated through contemporary fabrications inviting movement; polka-dot silks, stretch tailoring, and perfectly polished Cuban heels by Marsèll, perfect for dancing nights. Craft and modernity embrace with guayabera embroidery and vintage sportswear from the Adidas archive, reimagined as elements of a dancer’s wardrobe. The soft pinks and cognacs are interjected with vibrant hand painted florals, inspired by Cuban modernist painting and the work of surrealist Haitian painter Hector Hyppolite.
(Text source: walesbonner.net)